Enzymes for dermatological use.

Skin is the ultimate barrier between body and environment and prevents water loss and penetration of pathogens and toxins. Internal and external stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), can damage skin integrity and lead to disorders. Therefore, skin health and skin ageing are important concerns and increased research from cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors aims to improve skin conditions and provide new anti-ageing treatments. Biomolecules, compared to low molecular weight drugs and cosmetic ingredients, can offer high levels of specificity. Topically applied enzymes have been investigated to treat the adverse effects of sunlight, pollution and other external agents. Enzymes, with a diverse range of targets, present potential for dermatological use such as antioxidant enzymes, proteases and repairing enzymes. In this review, we discuss enzymes for dermatological applications and the challenges associated in this growing field.

HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol: Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results.

OBJECTIVE: Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. METHODS: The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. RESULTS: Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. CONCLUSIONS: It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.

OBJECTIF: Aujourd'hui, il est nécessaire d'améliorer les protocoles de sécurité d'emploi et d'efficacité pour évaluer le stratum corneum (SC) humain et son interaction avec les formulations topiques et cosmétiques par des méthodologies peu ou pas invasives. L'objectif de notre travail de recherche était de rationaliser la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, à savoir chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (High Performance Liquid Chromatography), substances réactives à l'acide thiobarbiturique (Thiobarbituric Acid Reactive Substances), stratum corneum ex vivo (SCEV), en explorant les résultats d'un groupe de 18 sujets. MÉTHODES: L'étude incluait 9 femmes et 9 hommes âgés de 19 à 57 ans présentant des phototypes II à V. Des sites de l'avant-bras de chaque volontaire ont été délimités de manière aléatoire, et le SC a été recueilli par « tape stripping ¼. La chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance a été utilisée pour quantifier l'adduit MDA-TBA2 (malondialdéhyde - acide thiobarbiturique) à partir du SC recueilli par « tape stripping ¼, irradié et non irradié par une chambre de simulation à ultraviolets (UV). RÉSULTATS: En observant les résultats de notre recherche actuelle et l'approche statistique appliquée, l'utilisation du rapport entre le site traité et le site contrôle serait une stratégie adéquate pour mieux discriminer et évaluer les résultats. En outre, une sélection optimale des volontaires pour répondre spécifiquement à l'objectif du test ex vivo peut également être considérée comme bénéfique. CONCLUSIONS: Il semble que dans les études futures axées sur l'impact de la peroxydation lipidique induite par UV du SC, déterminé par la méthodologie HPLC-TBARS-SCEV, les sujets les plus appropriés sont les femmes âgées de moins de 35 ans présentant un phototype II.

Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum.

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) includes several compounds in the stratum corneum (SC), among them, urocanic acid (UCA). Ultraviolet (UV) exposure turns the trans-UCA of the SC into its cis isomer. We investigated the impact of a topical emollient emulsion treatment on the UCA isomers of the SC exposed to artificial UV stress. Aliquots of emollient emulsion were applied in healthy subjects for 2 h on delimited areas of the volar forearm, then, the SC was removed by tape stripping. Tapes were irradiated in a solar simulator chamber and a high performance liquid chromatograph was used to quantify UCA isomers from stripped SC extract. The amount of both UCA isomers were almost twice higher in the SC treated with the emollient emulsion. We also observed that the UV irradiation elevated the amount of the cis/trans UCA ratio on the SC (non-treated and treated), suggesting that the emollient sample was not able to avoid the UCA isomerization. The in vivo tests corroborated with the UCA data obtained ex vivo, since we found an increase in the superficial skin hydration with respective reduction of the TEWL, probably occurring by the occlusion performed by the emollient emulsion containing 15.0% w/w of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Pluronic® triblock copolymer-based nanoformulations for cancer therapy: A 10-year overview.

This paper provides a review of the literature on the use of Pluronic® triblock copolymers for drug encapsulation over the last 10 years. A special focus is given to the progress of drug delivery systems (e.g., micelles, liposomes, micro/nanoemulsions, hydrogels and nanogels, and polymersomes and niosomes); the beneficial aspects of Pluronic® triblock copolymers as biological response modifiers and as pharmaceutical additives, adjuvants, and stabilizers, are also discussed. The advantages and limitations encountered in developing site-specific targeting approaches based on Pluronic-based nanostructures in cancer treatment are highlighted, in addition to innovative examples for improving tumor cytotoxicity while reducing side effects.

Impact of ferulic acid and resveratrol on the effectiveness and safety of sunscreen

Abstract The combination of avobenzone (AVO) and octyl ρ-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used to ensure broad-spectrum photo-protection because they absorb UVA and UVB, respectively. However, they are thermally and photo unstable because they degrade and undergo photo- tautomerization and trans-cis isomerization, thus reducing their photo-protection efficacy during UV exposure. This study aimed to evaluate the potential use of the antioxidants ferulic acid and resveratrol as stabilizing substances in AVO and OMC mixtures in solution or emulsion. The effects of both antioxidants on the thermal/photo-stability and suppression of the filter singlet state, besides skin permeation, were evaluated. Both antioxidants contributed to preserving OMC and AVO during the thermal stability test, which relates to the maintenance of photo-protection even after storing the formulations at high temperatures. Nevertheless, although resveratrol retained part of the OMC trans isomer and suppressed the AVO singlet state when exposed to UV, no contribution to photo-protection stability was observed, contrary to expectations. Regarding the permeation assay, the addition of both antioxidants was accompanied by a reduction of AVO permeation, while resveratrol increased OMC permeation. Thus, the chemical and physicochemical properties of these antioxidants impacted their efficacy and safety profiles; therefore, further studies are required to establish the real cost-benefit ratio for their use in sunscreens.

Characterization of lipid extracts from the Hermetia illucens larvae and their bioactivities for potential use as pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredients.

There is an increasingly growing demand for the use of natural and sustainable bioactives in the field of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The biomass from black soldier fly larvae (Hermetia illucens) can be viewed as an innovative source of compounds with high aggregate value and marketing potential due to the sustainable organic matter bioconversion process used as substrate for its development. This insect can be a source of lipid compounds with high added value, mainly due to its high content in fatty acids (FA) with potential applicability in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. In this context, in this work different extraction methods were tested (decoction, microwaves, maceration and ultrasound), using water, acetone, n-hexane as extraction solvents, to evaluate yields of the BSF larvae lipid extracts, as well as their lipid profile, and a preliminary safety screening was conducted. Results show that despite using different extraction techniques and solvents, similar FA composition profiles were obtained. The lauric acid content (C12: 0) is elevated in all the extracts in relation to the other FA, ranging 37%-62%. The contents in palmitic (C16: 0) and oleic (C18: 1n-9) acids, were also high in all applied extraction methods. The omega-6 FA (ω-6 PUFAs), mainly linoleic acid (C18: 2n6c), were also identified in the lipid fraction of BSF larvae biomass, with a content variation between 4.5% and 17.7%, while the omega-3 group, namely α-Linolenic acid (C18: 3n3), presented values between 0.66% and 1.95%. None of the extracts presented toxicity in preliminary tests with the Artemia salina model. Through this study, it was possible to confirm that BSF larvae oil can be obtained by sustainable methods, containing a broad mixture of FA and being highly rich in lauric acid, with a promising skin care applicability.

Impact of Portuguese propolis on keratinocyte proliferation, migration and ROS protection: Significance for applications in skin products.

OBJECTIVE: Propolis has been used since antiquity, but recent reports of its biological properties hint that it could be employed as a topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredient. This work aims to probe the action of Portuguese propolis extracts on skin cells, providing mechanistic insights into its mode of action and preliminarily assessing its applicability as a skin repair ingredient. METHODS: The total phenolic content of propolis extracts was measured by the Folin Ciocalteu method. The cytotoxic effect of propolis extracts in human keratinocytes was determined and non-cytotoxic concentrations of the extracts were used to study the impact on collective cell migration, cell cycle and intracellular ROS levels. RESULTS: o significant impact was observed in collective cell migration, but one of the extracts mildly increased G2 phase while reducing the % of sub-G1 at a non-cytotoxic concentration. The two extracts with higher phenolic content strongly prevented intracellular cellular ROS accumulation upon exposure to TBHP. Collectively, these results indicate that the putative beneficial effects of propolis extracts in skin repair may not be attributable to induction of collective cell migration but could be partially ascribed to the protection from oxidative stress, which could act in synergy with its well-known antimicrobial activity. CONCLUSION: These data support the applicability of this material in topical and cosmetic formulations and further in vivo assays should be conducted to fully characterize its efficacy and safety.

OBJECTIF: la propolis est utilisée depuis l'Antiquité, mais des rapports récents sur ses propriétés biologiques suggèrent qu'elle pourrait être utilisée comme ingrédient pharmaceutique et cosmétique topique. Ce travail de recherche vise à explorer l'effet d'extraits de propolis portugaise sur les cellules cutanées, en fournissant des informations sur le plan mécanique relatives à son mode d'action et en évaluant de manière préliminaire son applicabilité en tant qu'ingrédient de réparation cutanée. MÉTHODES: la teneur en substance phénolique totale d'extraits de propolis a été mesurée par la méthode de Folin-Ciocalteu. L'effet cytotoxique d'extraits de propolis dans les kératinocytes humains a été déterminé, et des concentrations non cytotoxiques de ces extraits ont été utilisées pour étudier l'impact sur la migration cellulaire collective, le cycle cellulaire et les taux de ROS intracellulaires. RÉSULTATS: un impact significatif a été observé sur la migration cellulaire collective, mais l'un des extraits a légèrement augmenté la phase G2 tout en réduisant le % de sub-G1 à une concentration non cytotoxique. Les deux extraits présentant une teneur phénolique plus élevée ont fortement prévenu l'accumulation de ROS intracellulaires lors de l'exposition à l'hydroperoxyde de tert-butyle (TBHP). Collectivement, ces résultats indiquent que les effets bénéfiques présumés des extraits de propolis dans la réparation cutanée pourraient ne pas être attribuables à l'induction de la migration cellulaire collective, mais partiellement à la protection contre le stress oxydatif, qui pourrait agir en synergie avec son activité antimicrobienne bien connue. CONCLUSION: ces données étayent l'applicabilité de cette substance dans les formulations topiques et cosmétiques, et des tests in vivo supplémentaires doivent être réalisés afin de caractériser plus précisément son efficacité et sa sécurité d'emploi.

Characterization of Collagen from Three Genetic Lines (Gray, Red and F1) of Oreochromis niloticus (Tilapia) Skin in Young and Old Adults.

From tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) farming, the by-products have been identified as a source of collagen that could be used for the development of dermocosmetics or pharmaceutical products. However, the characteristics of collagen related to a specific strain or culture must be well defined prior to its application. Collagen was extracted from the skin of three strains of tilapia: red YY males (YY: two Y-type sex chromosomes), XX gray females, and the F1: offspring of crossing red YY males with XX gray females; at different ages in the adult phase, using acetic acid and pepsin enzyme. The characteristics of acid-soluble collagen (ASC) and pepsin-soluble collagen (PSC) were shown by SDS-PAGE band profiles to be similar to bovine collagen type I (SIGMA), the PSC of gray tilapia being more fragile to temperature changes, consistent with the results of fractional viscosity. The characteristics of the F1 progeny were prioritized for being a commercially productive and sustainable source for the extraction of collagen, and the ASC form, being the one with the greatest stability and advantage over PSC, of importance to our investigations, leads to a controlled digestion as in the case of peptide induction, and also in the development of natural products in the pharmaceutical and/or dermocosmetic industry. Evaluations of the triple helix structure by FT-IR, X-ray diffraction and UV-visible spectroscopy give similar results between the strains: red, gray, and F1, and between ages in the adult form F1 (15, 24, and 36 months of age). Consequently, the skin of tilapia in adult form is recommended sustainably for up to 24 months of age where the collagen is obtained with the use of acetic acid without enzymatic treatment.

Influence of the Mixtures of Vegetable Oil and Vitamin E over the Microstructure and Rheology of Organogels.

Candelilla wax (CW) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) are classic solid-fiber-matrix organogelators. Despite the high number of studies using those ingredients in oily systems, there is scarce literature using a mixture of oil and antioxidants. Vitamin E (VE) is an important candidate for its lipophilicity and several applications on pharmaceutical, cosmetics, and food industries. In this work, we investigated the influences of mixtures between vegetable oil (VO) and VE on the microstructures and rheological properties of CW and 12HSA organogels. A weak gel (G''/G' > 0.1) with a shear-thinning behavior was observed for all samples. The presence of VE impacted the gel strength and the phase transition temperatures in a dose-dependent pattern. Larger and denser packed crystals were seen for 12HSA samples, while smaller and more dispersed structures were obtained for CW organogels. The results obtained in this work allowed the correlation of the structural and mechanical properties of the organogels, which plays an important role in the physical-chemical characteristics of these materials.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole, and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy.

OBJECTIVE: The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS: Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability, and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS: As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME; nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION: Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Impact of Acid ("Progressive Brush") and Alkaline Straightening on the Hair Fiber: Differential Effects on the Cuticle and Cortex Properties.

Background: Glyoxylic acid has emerged as a safe alternative to formol (formaldehyde) use as a hair straightener/relaxer. However, the possible damage to the hair fiber after its application is low known and/or published in the literature. Aims: This work aims to characterize hair locks treated with glyoxylic acid compared to traditional alkaline straighteners such as sodium and guanidine hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate. Materials and Methods: The morphology of the hair cuticles was observed by scanning electron microscopy. Protein loss was assessed by the Lowry method modified by Peterson and as mechanical properties that were expressed in terms of tensile strength. Results: All products (sodium and guanidine hydroxides and ammonium thioglycolate) caused protein loss of about 2.5 µg/g, except glyoxylic acid that caused the worst damage (3.5 µg/g), in relation to the untreated (virgin) hair (1.12 µg/g), indicating that the chemical treatments can cause hair damage in both cuticles and cortex. The force to break the fibers treated with traditional straighteners based on sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide, and ammonium thioglycolate was statistically the same. Conclusion: The treatment with glyoxylic acid showed rupture tensile statistically equivalent to the alkaline straighteners. The mechanism of action of glyoxylic acid does not appear to be based on breaking and rearrangement of disulfide bridges, but altered them, that influenced the hair strength. However, it is also essential to consider other factors relevant: technical application technique, reaction time, and interval of reapplication of the product, as this can change the pattern of the results obtained.

Xylityl Sesquicaprylate Efficacy as an Antiseptic Ingredient for Oral Care Products (Mouthwash): An In Vitro Screening Investigation against Eight Microorganisms.

For dental caries and periodontal diseases initiated by dental plaque (as bacterial communities) and to inhibit the growth of oral pathogenic bacteria, oral care products containing antiseptic active ingredients are highly recommended, nonetheless, side effects of such actives are a concern (teeth discoloration/staining and taste perception, for example). In this context, we challenged xylityl sesquicaprylate, an antiseptic compound from natural resources, as an active ingredient to be used in an alcohol-free mouthwash formulation. The xylityl sesquicaprylate sample was compared to a respective blank mouthwash formulation and one containing triclosan. The in vitro efficacy was screened by the time-kill assay against eight microorganisms. The xylityl sesquicaprylate-containing mouthwash (0.45% w/w) presented a particularly interesting profile of efficacy against Actinomyces viscosus, Fusobacterium nucleatum, Porphyromonas gingivalis, and Tannerella forsythia, with results of greater magnitude to reduce the log10 of those microorganisms in comparison with the triclosan sample.

RP-HPLC simultaneous quantification of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl methoxycinnamate in the presence of hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin (HPβCD) and sulfobutyl ether β-cyclodextrin (SBEβCD)

Abstract Development and validation of a simple and fast method of high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) for the simultaneously analysis of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate is presented. These substances were separated using a Kromasil C18 (250×4.6 mm, 5 μm) column, methanol: water (88:12 v/v) as the mobile phase, and a flow rate of 0.8 mL min−1. The experiment was performed at room temperature and elution was under isocratic conditions. Quantification was performed by external calibration at the wavelength of 325 nm. The validated parameters included linearity, selectivity, precision (repeatability), intermediate precision, accuracy, limit of detection, limit of quantification and robustness. The results of validation were statistically treated using the Action Stat version 3.5.152.34. The selectivity was also evaluated in the presence of two cyclodextrins (2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and β-cyclodextrin sulfobutyl ether sodium). The absence of parallelism between the curves of octyl p-methoxycinnamate in the absence and presence of the β-cyclodextrin sulfobutyl ether sodium in the mobile phase revealed interference from this matrix, thereby indicating the necessity of validating the method in the presence of this, and other matrices. The proposed method was selective, linear, precise, accurate, and robust for the simultaneous determination of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments.

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, ß-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Homemade Kefir Consumption Improves Skin Condition-A Study Conducted in Healthy and Atopic Volunteers.

Diet has a fundamental role in the homeostasis of bodily functions, including the skin, which, as an essential protective barrier, plays a crucial role in this balance. The skin and intestine appear to share a series of indirect metabolic pathways, in a dual relationship known as the "gut-skin axis". Hence, the gut-skin axis might be receptive to modulation via dietary modification, where probiotics can be included, thus representing a potential therapeutic target in inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis (AD), in order to control and/or ameliorate symptoms. Kefir is one of the most ancient fermented foods, with probiotic characteristics that have been associated with a wide variety of health-promoting benefits, and it presents a microbiological diversity that makes its application as a probiotic in the gut-skin relationship of the utmost interest. However, the impact of a diet containing kefir on skin health has yet to be reported in scientific literature. This study aimed to assess the impact of the intake of homemade kefir in the skin of healthy and atopic volunteers. The intervention resulted in a boost on barrier function in both skin types verified only in the respective kefir intake groups. An improvement in the degree of severity of AD was also confirmed for the kefir intake group. Atopic individuals may benefit from kefir intake, especially in regard to their skin hydration. Finally, the effects observed on skin barrier function in this study probably culminate from the effects of all the ingredients in kefir, including the complex microbiota, its metabolites and macro- and micronutrients resulting from the fermentation. This work opens the way for more advanced research on the impact of the probiotic kefir on cutaneous health, further clarifying its mechanism of action namely via gut-skin axis.

Propanediol (and) Caprylic Acid (and) Xylitol as a New Single Topical Active Ingredient against Acne: In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy Assays.

In addition to dermatological complications, acne can affect the quality of life of individuals in numerous ways, such as employment, social habits and body dissatisfaction. According to our expertise, caprylic acid and propanediol would not have a direct action on Cutibacterium acnes. Despite this, we investigated the existence of a synergistic effect among xylitol, caprylic acid and propanediol as a mixture of compounds representing a single topical active ingredient that could benefit the treatment against acne. In vitro and in vivo assays were performed to challenge and to prove the efficacy of propanediol, xylitol and caprylic acid (PXCA) against acne. PXCA had its MIC challenged against C. acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus aureus, resulting in concentrations of 0.125% and 0.25%, respectively, and it also developed antimicrobial activity against C. acnes (time-kill test). PXCA was able to reduce the 5-alpha reductase expression in 24% (p < 0.01) in comparison with the testosterone group. By the end of 28 days of treatment, the compound reduced the skin oiliness, porphyrin amount and the quantity of inflammatory lesions in participants. According to the dermatologist evaluation, PXCA improved the skin's general appearance, acne presence and size.

Skin impacts from exposure to ultraviolet, visible, infrared, and artificial lights - a review.

Social distancing is conducive to grow the impact of artificial light in the daily life of the worldwide population with reported consequences to the skin. Sunlight is also essential for human development, indeed, solar radiation is composed of different types of wavelengths, which generate different skin effects. It can be divided into ultraviolet (UV), infrared (IR), and visible. UV radiation (UVA and UVB) has cutaneous biological effects ranging from photoaging, immunosuppression to melanoma formation, through the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), inflammation and elevation of the energy state of organic molecules, changing the DNA structure. IR radiation reaches deeper layers of the skin and is also related to the generation of ROS, photoaging and erythema while visible light is responsible for generating ROS, pigmentation, cytokine formation, and matrix metallopeptidases (MMPs). Furthermore, artificial light could be harmful to the skin, as it can generate ROS, hyperpigmentation, and stimulate photoaging. Currently, we briefly summarized the cutaneous biological effects of sunlight, as well as artificial light on skin and remarked the opportunity of the evolution of current photoprotective formulas through new strategies with broad spectrum protection.

Preclinical and clinical studies to evaluate cutaneous biodistribution, safety and efficacy of UV filters encapsulated in mesoporous silica SBA-15.

Innovative technologies have been designed to improve efficacy and safety of chemical UV filters. Encapsulation can enhance efficacy and reduce transdermal permeation and systemic exposure. The aims of this work were (i) to determine the cutaneous biodistribution of avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) incorporated in mesoporous silica SBA-15 and (ii) to perform preclinical (in vitro) and (iii) clinical safety studies to demonstrate their innocuity and to evaluate sun protection factor (SPF) in humans. Skin penetration studies showed that deposition of OXY and AVO in porcine and human skin after application of stick formulation with incorporated filters (stick incorporated filters) was significantly lower than from a marketed (non-encapsulated) stick. Cutaneous deposition and transdermal permeation of OXY in and across human skin were 3.8-and 13.4- fold lower, respectively, after application of stick entrapped filters. Biodistribution results showed that encapsulation in SBA-15 decreased AVO and OXY penetration reaching porcine and human dermis. Greater deposition (and permeation) of OXY in porcine skin than in human skin, pointed to the role of follicular transport. Stick incorporated filters had good biocompatibility in vivo and safety profiles, even under sun-exposed conditions. Entrapment of UV filters improved the SPF by 26% and produced the same SPF profile as a marketed stick. Overall, the results showed that SBA-15 enabled safety and efficacy of UV filters to be increased.

An Overview on Topical Administration of Carotenoids and Coenzyme Q10 Loaded in Lipid Nanoparticles.

Carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 are naturally occurring antioxidant compounds that are also found in human skin. These bioactive compounds have been the focus of considerable research due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties. In this review, the current state of the art in the encapsulation of carotenoids and coenzyme Q10 in lipid nanoparticles to improve their bioavailability, chemical stability, and skin absorption is discussed. Additionally, the main findings are highlighted on the cytotoxic and photoprotective effects of these systems in the skin.

Vitamin E-loaded bigels and emulsions: Physicochemical characterization and potential biological application.

Bigels have been studied as topical formulations for its benefits over sensory and drug delivery parameters. However, there is still few evidences about the properties of the combination of organogelators, oily phases and bioactive molecules into rheological and stability behavior. We investigated the use of classical organogelators (candelilla wax and 12-hydroxystearic acid) and oily phases (sunflower and mineral oil) in 5/95 organogel/polymeric hydrogel ratio to compare vitamin E bigels with its corresponding emulsions. The rheological measurements, microstructure, physical and oxidative stability properties and biological behavior were evaluated. The obtained oil-in-water bigels and emulsions showed crystallization pattern at the interface with high thermal and centrifuge-stress stability. Viscoelastic weak gels were obtained with higher thixotropy and consistency of 12-hydroxystearic bigels. The diameter of the inner phase was increased by vitamin E, despite its little influence over physical and oxidative stability of bigels and emulsions. Those findings indicated that sensory attributes may be regulated by the organogel composition.